How to Install a Vinyl Fence Line

Hi, I’m Jerry, and I’m the owner of Gifford Fence Company, LLC. I have over 40 years of experience in fence installation, and I have put together a simple, step-by-step plan for installing vinyl fencing. This post will walk you through how to build a tongue and groove vinyl privacy fence.

We will begin by getting your line set up. You will need to dig your post holes at each end of the line you are building. Make sure the hole is at least 8” in diameter (vinyl posts are 5” square, so this gives you room to add concrete) and 30”–36” deep.

Place your post in the hole and ensure that the bottom of the bottom rail hole is at least 2” above the ground. If you dug the hole too deep, simply push some of the removed soil back in; if it is too shallow, you will need to dig a bit more.

Pay close attention to the orientation of the post. You want the side of the post to be in line with the post at the other end of the run. Avoid "twisting" the post, as this makes the rails harder to insert and looks awkward once the fence is up.

Next, push some soil back into the hole. Using a packing bar (a shovel handle or other round bar works great), pack the soil around the post. This allows you to level the post while keeping it from falling over. Use a level to ensure the post is vertically level on one side, pack the soil, then level the adjacent side and pack again.

Now, add the concrete. I suggest a minimum of 60 lbs, though you can go up to 80 lbs. Anything over 80 lbs is overkill and will make future repairs much harder. Use your packing bar to pack the concrete around all four sides, checking your level as you go. Lastly, push the remaining soil around the post and pack it down with your foot.

Once your end posts are set, run a string line. For vinyl fencing, I suggest running the line about 12” above the ground. This string provides guidance for digging your intermediate holes and removes the guesswork of "eyeballing" the line. Dig your holes so they overlap the string by about 2” to give you room to move the posts as you install them.

Insert the bottom rail into the first post until the locking tabs are all the way inside, then pull the rail back out until the tabs catch. Move to the other end of the rail and dig your new post hole. Insert the post and ensure it is at the correct depth, then insert the bottom rail into that post.

Next, insert the top rail into the starting post and pull back until the tabs catch. Now, insert the pickets into the rail channels. For the first picket, ensure the included U-channel is against the post. Insert the remaining pickets one at a time, pushing them tight against the previous one. The final picket should also have a U-channel against the post to provide a clean finish and a little "wiggle room."

To finish the panel, drop the top rail down and lean the top of your post away just enough to insert the rail into the hole. Push the post tight against the panel and level it. If you need to raise a post, lift it and pack soil underneath; to lower it, place a piece of lumber on top and tap it down with a sledgehammer.

For added strength, use 1” self-tapping screws in each top rail, placed right against the inside wall of the post. This provides extra rigidity beyond the locking tabs.

Install the post caps using a dab of silicone. Do not use plastic glue, as you may need to remove the caps for repairs later. Finally, pour 3–5 gallons of water on both sides of each post. The water will sift down through the soil and concrete to start the setting process.

This is a simple explanation of how to install a straight line of tongue and groove vinyl privacy fence. If you have any questions or need help, feel free to contact us!